Louis Vuitton Malletier (Vuitton or plaintiff) appeals from an August 27, 2004 judgment of the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York (Scheindlin, J.) that denied plaintiffs motion for a preliminary injunction in its trademark infringement suit against defendant Dooney & Bourke, Inc. (Dooney & Bourke or defendant).
We deal on this appeal with the trademark of a trendy luxury women’s handbag, a handbag so instantly popular with purchasers that legions of imitators quickly appeared on the fashion scene after plaintiff Vuitton introduced it in October 2002. This is the second infringement case we have heard regarding the same trademark, but with a different alleged infringer. We cannot help but observe that for the person carrying it, a handbag may serve as a practical container of needed items, a fashion statement, or a reflection of its owner’s personality; it may fairly be said that in many cases a handbag is so essential that its owner would be lost without it.
In the earlier case before us,
Louis Vuitton Malletier v. Burlington Coat Factory Warehouse Corp.,
This time, Vuitton seeks a preliminary injunction against Dooney & Bourke, another handbag manufacturer. Vuitton’s trademark Multicolore handbag design is the same as it was in the earlier case, but the allegedly infringing handbag, Dooney
&
Bourke’s “IL-Bag,” is different from the one in the earlier case. When the district court decided this ease and denied plaintiffs motion for a preliminary injunction,
see Louis Vuitton Malletier v. Dooney & Bourke, Inc.,
We now affirm, in part, and vacate and remand, in part. We affirm that part of the district court’s order that denied a preliminary injunction on the basis of an alleged dilution of plaintiffs mark under federal law. But, we vacate and remand that portion of the order addressing Vuitton’s Lanham Act and New York state trademark infringement and unfair competition claims, as well as that portion of the order assessing plaintiffs state law dilution claims.
BACKGROUND
A. Parties and Facts
Vuitton, a French design firm, began selling trunks and accessories in the United States in 1893. In 1896 it created the Toile Monogram, featuring entwined LV initials with three motifs: a curved diamond with a four-point star inset, its negative, and a circle with a four-leafed flower inset. Vuitton registered trademarks in this design pattern as well as the individual unique shapes with the United States Patent and Trademark Office. Having been used exclusively and continuously, those trademarks, the Louis Vuitton Toile Monogram Designs (Toile marks), are now incontestible. See 15 U.S.C. § 1065 (providing, with certain exceptions, that registered marks in continuous use for five consecutive years after registration are in-contestible).
In October 2002 plaintiff launched a series of handbags featuring “new signature designs” created by Marc Jacobs and Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. The new bags (Murakami handbags) incorporated an update on the fashion house’s famous Toile marks. The fresh design — coined the Louis Vuitton Monogram Multicolore pattern (Multicolore mark) — was a modified version of the Toile marks, printed in 33 bright colors (Murakami colors) on a white or black background.
Plaintiff states that it spent over $4 million in 2003-2004 advertising and promoting the Multicolore mark and associated handbags. In addition, the new design garnered significant media attention. CBS’s The Early Show and publications ranging from USA Today and The New York Times to People, Women’s Wear Daily, Marie Claire, and Vogue all featured the Murakami handbags. Celebrities including Jennifer Lopez, Reese Wither-spoon, and Madonna were photographed with the bags in tow.
' At the time plaintiff filed its complaint, it had sold nearly 70,000 handbags and accessories with the Multicolore mark de *113 sign in the United States for between $360 and $3,950 each, amounting to over $40 million. Of that sum, $25 million was attributable to the white background design and $16 million to the black background design.
Defendant Dooney & Bourke, an American handbag designer and manufacturer, was founded in 1975. Since 2001 as part of the Dooney & Bourke’s “Signature” and “Mini Signature” lines, the company has sold bags featuring the DB monogram of interlocking initials, a registered trademark, in a repeated pattern. The handbags sell for between $125 and $400.
In the fall of 2002 Peter Dooney, president and chief designer of Dooney & Bourke, began collaborating with Teen Vogue magazine on a joint promotional project as the magazine was being launched. The magazine selected a group of teenaged girls to travel with Dooney to Italy in March 2003 to help develop Doo-ney & Bourke handbags appealing to teenagers. The group, dubbed the “It Team,” was photographed looking into Vuitton’s store window display featuring handbags with the Multicolore marks on a white background. Another photograph taken during the trip showed the group in a factory viewing a swatch of fabric with the Multicolore mark on a black background.
A year later, in late July 2003 Dooney & Bourke introduced its “INBag” collection, which featured the DB monogram in an array of bright colors set against a white background. The intertwined initials, with the “D” and the “B” displayed in contrasting colors, were printed forward and backward in repeating diagonal rows. The handbags also sported a multicolor zipper, with fabric similar to that used by Vuitton, and a small pink enamel heart bearing the legend “Dooney & Bourke” on a tag hanging from the handle. In October 2003 Dooney & Bourke began selling the handbags with a black background. The IN Bag collection now includes a variety of colored backgrounds (periwinkle, bubble gum, grape) in addition to black and white.
B. District Court Proceedings
After becoming aware of Dooney & Bourke’s INBag and investigating through counsel the likelihood of infringement, plaintiff sent a cease-and-desist letter to defendant on April 16, 2004 and filed this action in the Southern District of New York on April 19, 2004. Vuitton claimed trademark infringement, unfair competition and false designation, and trademark dilution, under federal and New York state law. Plaintiff moved for a preliminary injunction on April 28, 2004, but before ruling on the motion, the district court granted defendant time to conduct its own survey. The court held a seven-day hearing on the motion for a preliminary injunction.
On August 27, 2004 the trial court issued an opinion denying Vuitton’s motion for a preliminary injunction. It held that plaintiffs Multicolore mark, consisting of the traditional LV pattern in the 33 Murakami colors on a white or black background, was an inherently distinctive mark that had achieved secondary meaning in the marketplace.
Dooney & Bourke,
This appeal followed.
DISCUSSION
I Preliminary Injunction and Standard of Review
To obtain a preliminary injunction, plaintiff must show irreparable harm
*114
absent injunctive relief, and either a likelihood of success on the merits, or a serious question going to the merits to make them a fair ground for trial, with a balance of hardships tipping decidedly in plaintiffs favor.
Jackson Dairy, Inc. v. H.P. Hood & Sons, Inc.,
Vuitton contends the district court applied the wrong standard for its requested preliminary injunction, requiring it to meet the heightened burden of proof necessary for a mandatory injunction rather than a prohibitory injunction. It takes this position based on the district court’s comment that a party seeking an injunction must show not only a likelihood, but a “clear” or “substantial” likelihood, of success on the merits, “where the injunction sought is mandatory — i.e., it will alter rather than maintain, the status quo.”
Dooney & Bourke, 340
F.Supp.2d at 438 (citing
Sunward Elecs., Inc. v. McDonald,
“The distinction between mandatory and prohibitory injunctions is not without ambiguities or critics.”
Tom Doherty Assocs., Inc. v. Saban Entm’t, Inc.,
Dooney & Bourke argues that although the district court
cited
the standard for a mandatory injunction, it
applied
the standard for a prohibitory injunction. We cannot agree. Not only did the court refer to the standard for a mandatory injunction,
Dooney & Bourke,
II Trademark Infringement
Vuitton claims trademark infringement under both § 32 of the Trademark Act of 1946 (Lanham Act), 15 U.S.C. § 1114, and § 43(a) of that Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1125(a). Because the trademark at the core of this case — the Multicolore mai*k — is unregistered, we focus our discussion on the § 43(a) claim. Yet, we note that the same analysis applies to claims of trademark infringement under § 32.
See Virgin Enters. Ltd. v. Nawab,
Section 43(a) of the Lanham Act prohibits a person from using “any word, term, name, symbol, or device, or any combination thereof ... which ... is likely to cause confusion ... as to the origin, sponsorship, or approval of his or her goods....” 15 U.S.C. § 1125(a). This section protects from infringement unregistered trademarks,
EMI Catalogue P’ship v. Hill, Holliday, Connors, Cosmopulos Inc.,
We analyze trademark infringement claims under the familiar two-prong test described in
Gruner
+
Jahr USA Publ’g v. Meredith Corp.,
A. Recognizing and Defining Vuitton’s Trademark
We begin by assessing the degree to which plaintiffs trademark merits protection. Vuitton claims a new trademark, currently unregistered, consisting of a design plus color, that is, the traditional Vuitton Toile pattern design' — entwined LV initials with the three already described motifs — displayed in the 33 Murakami colors and printed on a white or black background. In evaluating this mark’s protectability, it is useful to be aware of the contours and limits of what Vuitton asserts is its trademark.
Notably, plaintiff does not claim a separate trademark in the colors alone. If it were to claim such a trademark, it would be required to show that the multicolors, set on a white or black background, create a separate and distinct commercial impression, apart from the monogram motif design, and that the colors serve to indicate Vuitton as the source.
See
1 J. Thomas McCarthy,
McCarthy on Trademarks and Unfair Competition,
§ 7:2, at 7-6.1 (4th ed. 2005)
(McCarthy); see also Wal-Mart Stores,
Instead, plaintiff maintains that the polychromatic display is an “essential part” of its trademarked design, and that other handbag manufacturers are free to create their own brightly-colored handbags so long as they do not do so in a manner confusingly similar to the Vuitton combination of color and defined design. With regard to its own trademark, plaintiff asserts that it “cannot dissect the color from the pattern.... [T]he strength of the mark here is ... the synergy between the colors and the [traditional] Louis Vuitton trademarks.”
Vuitton does not seek to protect the overall look of its handbags, that is, its trade dress, but rather the narrower trademark it has established in its colored pattern. We have defined trade dress as “the total image of a good as defined by its overall composition and design, including size, shape, color, texture, and graphics.”
Coach Leatherware Co. v. AnnTaylor, Inc.,
In “determining whether an unregistered mark is entitled to protection under § 43(a),”
Two Pesos, Inc. v. Taco Cabana, Inc.,
To qualify for registration under § 2, or to establish protectability under § 43(a), “a mark must be sufficiently ‘distinctive’ to distinguish the registrant’s goods from those of others.”
See Star Indus. v. Bacardi & Co.,
Basic geometric shapes, basic letters, and single colors are not protectable as inherently distinctive.
Id.
at 383;
see Qualitex,
Vuitton’s Multicolore mark, consisting of styled shapes and letters — the traditional Toile mark combined with the 33 Muraka-mi colors' — is original in the handbag market and inherently distinctive. The Toile pattern, on which it is based, has been a famous indicator of Louis Vuitton for over a century. The new Multicolore mark was created as a source-identifier for Vuitton in the new millennium. It is a strong mark. The mark earned praise and became famous almost instantly. We agree with the district court that the Multicolore mark is protectable both because it is inherently distinctive and because it has acquired secondary meaning.
B. Assessing the Likelihood of Confusion
We turn next to the question of likelihood of confusion. In analyzing this second prong of the test for trademark infringement, courts apply the non-exclusive multi-factor test developed by Judge Friendly in
Polaroid Corp. v. Polarad Electronics Corp.,
The similarity of the marks is a key factor in determining likelihood of confusion.
Burlington Coat Factory,
The district court here noted that there were “obvious similarities” between the Louis Vuitton and Dooney & Bourke handbags. However, citing
Louis Vuitton Malletier v. Burlington Coat Factory Warehouse Corp.,
No. 04 Civ. 2644,
It appears the trial court made the same mistake that we criticized in Burlington Coat Factory: inappropriately focusing on the similarity of the marks in a side-by-side comparison instead of when viewed sequentially in the context of the marketplace. The district court reasoned
[I]t could not be more obvious that Louis Vuitton uses the initials “LV,” while Dooney & Bourke uses its trademarked “DB” logo. Thus, a consumer seeing these trademarks printed on these bags, either up close or at a distance, is not likely to be confused.... [T]he Dooney & Bourke bags only use their “DB” initials; there are no geometric shapes interspersed with the monogram .... [T]he colors used on the Doo-ney & Bourke bag are noticeably toned down, and consequently fail to evoke the characteristic “friction” sparked by Mu-rakami’s bright, clashing colors, the Louis Vuitton marks create a very different overall impression (i.e., large interspersed shapes and initials in crisp, bold colors) than the Dooney & Bourke bags (i.e., tightly interlocked initials in dulled colors).
Dooney & Bourke,
Utilizing a side-by-side comparison can be a useful “heuristic means of investigating similarities and differences in ... respective designs,” so long as a court maintains a “focus on the ultimate issue of the likelihood of consumer confusion.”
Id.
at 538. Courts should keep in mind that in this context the law requires only confusing similarity, not identity.
See, e.g., The Sports Auth., Inc. v. Prime Hospitality Corp.,
The district court erred because it based its determination that confusion between the Vuitton and Dooney
&
Bourke marks was unlikely at least in part on an overemphasized side-by-side comparison. This is suggested by the district court’s comment that “no amount of expert opinion, legal analysis, or demonstrative evidence can overcome the clarity that comes from direct observation.”
Dooney & Bourke,
*118
We do not believe the district court clearly erred with respect to the other Polaroid factors. Nonetheless, because no single factor is dispositive, we must remand for the district court to revisit the entire analysis, under the new standard described here and in
Burlington Coat Factory.
Upon remand, the district court should keep in mind that “[n]o single factor is dispositive, nor is a court limited to consideration of only these factors.”
Brennan’s,
III Dilution
Vuitton also appeals the denial of its motion for a preliminary injunction on its Federal Trademark Dilution Act claim (Trademark Dilution Act or Act), 15 U.S.C. § 1125(c). The discussion of this subject begins with the Federal Trademark Dilution Act of 1995, Pub.L. 104-98, 109 Stat. 985, which amended § 43 of the Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1125, by adding a new § 43(c) to provide a cause of action for dilution of “famous” marks. That new section is codified at 15 U.S.C. § 1125(c). The Trademark Dilution Act provides that “the owner of a famous mark shall be entitled ... to an injunction against another person’s commercial use in commerce of a mark or trade name, if such use begins after the mark has become famous and causes dilution of the distinctive quality of the mark.” 15 U.S.C. § 1125(c)(1). To establish a violation of the Act, a plaintiff must show that: “(1) its mark is famous; (2) the defendant is making commercial use of the mark in commerce; (3) the defendant’s use began after the mark became famous; and (4) the defendant’s use of the mark dilutes the quality of the mark by diminishing the capacity of the mark to identify and distinguish goods and services.”
Savin Corp. v. Savin Group,
The new section lists factors a court may consider in deciding whether a mark qualifies for protection as a famous mark. 15 U.S.C. § 1125(c)(1). But since Vuitton’s mark is conceded to be a famous mark we need not discuss those factors. Under this law, the only relief a plaintiff may obtain is an injunction upon a finding of a defendant’s liability for diluting the distinctive quality of a famous mark, except in cases of willful dilution where damages also may be awarded. 15 U.S.C. § 1125(c)(2). State law is not preempted, as it is in patent and copyright laws. See H.R.Rep. No. 104-374, at 7 (1995), as reprinted in 1995 U.S.C.C.A.N. 1029, 1035.
The Trademark Dilution Act also amended § 45 of the Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1127. The amended law defines dilution as “the lessening of the capacity of a famous mark to identify and distinguish goods or services, regardless of the presence or absence of (1) competition between the owner of the famous mark and other parties, or (2) likelihood of confusion, mistake, or deception.” 15 U.S.C. § 1127.
In
Moseley v. V. Secret Catalogue, Inc.,
Assuming that Vuitton can prove fame and distinctiveness, it must still offer evidence of actual dilution. Moseley,
We agree with the district court that Vuitton has not offered any evidence of actual dilution. Specifically, plaintiff has failed to show that Dooney & Bourke’s use of a similar mark has reduced the capacity of Vuitton’s Multicolore mark to identify handbags and accessories manufactured by Vuitton.
See
15 U.S.C. § 1127;
Moseley,
IV State Law Claims
Vuitton claims, in addition, trademark infringement and unfair competition under New York state law, and trademark dilution and injury to business reputation under N.Y. Gen. Bus. Law § 360-1.
We analyze claims under New York’s unfair competition statute in a similar fashion to how we analyze claims under the Lanham Act.
See Burlington Coat Factory,
Finally, we remand also with respect to plaintiffs claims of dilution under state law, despite having affirmed the district court on plaintiffs claim of dilution under federal law. The federal dilution standard “requires a showing of actual dilution, ... and, thus, is more stringent than the New York standard.”
Savin Corp.,
To analyze likelihood of dilution under N.Y. Gen. Bus. Law § 360-1, courts employ a multi-factor test.
See Burlington Coat Factory,
CONCLUSION
For the foregoing reasons, we affirm in part, and vacate and remand in part, the order of the district court. On remand, it should consider the precise trademark *120 claimed by the plaintiff and whether, under market conditions and when viewed sequentially, Vuitton can prove likelihood of confusion between its Multicolore mark and the pattern of Dooney & Bourke’s IN Bag.
