Case Information
*1
the plaintiff. See Tools USA &; Equip.,
When the trade dresses are so "clearly distinguishable and would appear so to all but the most obtuse consumer," Haagen-Dazs,
IV
For the foregoing reasons, we conclude that Abercrombie's clothing designs and in-store presentations are legally functional non-protectable trade dress and that Abercrombie could not possibly have carried its burden of proving that American's catalog was confusingly similar to what we have presumed is the protectable trade dress of Abercrombie's Quarterly. On this basis, we AFFIRM the judgment of the district court in favor of defendant American Eagle Outfitters, Inc.
UNITED STATES COURT OF APPEALS
FOR THE SIXTH CIRCUIT
ABERCROMBIE &; FITCH STORES, INC., Plaintiff-Appellant, v.
AMERICAN EAGLE Outfitters, Inc., Defendant-Appellee.
No. 99-4240
Appeal from the United States District Court for the Southern District of Ohio at Columbus. No. 98-00569—John D. Holschuh, District Judge. Argued: December 7, 2000 Decided and Filed: February 15, 2002 Before: JONES, BOGGS, and SILER, Circuit Judges.
COUNSEL
ARGUED: Frank J. Colucci, COLUCCI &; UMANS, New York, New York, for Appellant. Robert G. Sugarman, WEIL, GOTSHAL &; MANGES, New York, New York, for Appellee. ON BRIEF: Frank J. Colucci, COLUCCI &; UMANS, New York, New York, Melvin D. Weinstein,
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KEGLER, BROWN, HILL &; RITTER, Columbus, Ohio, for Appellant. Robert G. Sugarman, Lynda M. Braun, WEIL, GOTSHAL &; MANGES, New York, New York, for Appellee.
OPINION
BOGGS, Circuit Judge. This case pits an old hand at trademark law against the new kid on the block: Abercrombie &; Fitch sued American Eagle Outfitters to stop American Eagle from infringing what A&;F describes as its unregistered "trade dress," made protectable by Section 43(a) of the Lanham Act. A&;F claimed that AE impermissibly copied the designs of certain articles of clothing, in-store advertising displays, and a catalog. The district court granted summary judgment in favor of American Eagle, reasoning that Abercrombie &; Fitch had sought protection for something that did not constitute trade dress at all. Abercrombie timely appealed. Today "we relieve A&;F of some of its unhappiness but not of all." Abercrombie &; Fitch Co. v. Hunting World, Inc.,
I
Abercrombie &; Fitch Stores, Inc. ("Abercrombie" or "A&;F") describes itself as a "retailer of men's and women's casual clothing, such as t-shirts, outerwear, sweatshirts, woven shirts, sweaters, jeans, khakis, shorts, baseball caps, belts, socks, and other accessories . . . designed primarily to appeal to young men and women of college age." It sells its products nationwide through 157 retail stores and a mail- other media), are nevertheless often radically different, compare JA at 352 (AE on "After all the gifts are opened . . . and the decorations are packed away, there is really one thing that lasts through the holidays . . . the spirit of giving") with JA at (A&;F on "Must have mongrels," "Nothing beats a good truck," "I'll have a brew Christmas," " 7 ways to survive a holiday gathering with your relatives"); see also JA at 146 (Carl Quintanilla, Du-ude! Clothier's Catalog Sells Students on Drinking, The Wall Street Journal (July 24, 1998) (covering a Quarterly feature called "Drinking 101," which included recipes and a device for playing drinking games, and the uproar it generated with, among others, Mothers Against Drunk Driving)). Most notably, Abercrombie displays its trademarks and variations of them throughout the Quarterly. On nearly every page of the Quarterly in the record, the Abercrombie name and marks are visible. The American catalog does not shy away from the American marks; they also appear throughout. While both companies liberally using their trademarks throughout their catalogs is a similarity, it is also a difference, because each uses its own trademark and trademarks are designedly an indication of a product's origin.
On these undisputed facts, we conclude that the trade dress of American's catalog is, as a matter of law, not similar to the A&;F Quarterly in terms of the overall visual impression the two catalogs create. No rational trier of fact could conclude that the overall appearances created by the configuration of the two catalogs are similar. They contain too many significant dissimilarities, in terms of both style, layout, and content, along with the ubiquitousness of the producers' respective trademarks constantly indicating- on practically every page - the catalog's origin, to conclude otherwise. This case is wholly unlike Tools USA &; Equipment, where the defendant reproduced a "stars and stripes" logo around the catalog name, an ordering information box and the phrase "Attention: Body Shop Managers" in capital letters at the bottom of the cover page, and a banner containing ordering instructions across each page, among other devices used by
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logos displayed more or less prominently. A&;F works with noted fashion photographer Bruce Weber, whose style is wellknown in the industry and recognizable by even the uninitiated.
[24]
American's photographs in contrast, present a decidedly wholesome image, with people of various ages in non-suggestive, often family-oriented situations; nudity is absent. The pictures themselves are much less grainy than Abercrombie's, and there are far fewer of them. Totally absent from American's catalog is the sort of campy sketchwork that dominates much of A&;F's editorial content. See JA at 437 (depicting "skinny snowboarding" and "nude water polo"). American makes sparing use of lifestyle editorial content, and the subjects, while occasionally similar, compare JA at 340-41 (AE's mention of a few books and magazines) with JA at 383-84 (A&;F reviewing books and
[24]
In the world of fashion, as in the world of technology, it appears that the judicial system may be ill-equipped to keep pace with rapidly evolving trends and innovations. See United States v. Microsoft Corp.,
A&;F identifies an "Abercrombie brand" as having "unique and inherently distinctive features" and refers to such as its trade dress. This trade dress, Abercrombie claims, comprises nine features:
1) Use of the Abercrombie marks, in particular the A &; F trademark in Universe Bold Condensed typeface. 2) Use of the word performance on labels and advertising and promotional material to convey the image of an active line of casual clothing. 3) Use of such words and phrases as authentic, genuine brand, trademark, and since 1892 on labels and advertising and promotional material to convey the reliability of the Abercrombie brand. 4) Use of the word outdoor on labels and advertising and promotional materials to convey the image of a rugged outdoor line of casual clothing. 5) Use of design logos, such as the ski patrol cross and lacrosse sticks, and product names for the types of clothing, such as "field jersey," to convey the image of an athletic line of casual clothing. 6) Use of primary color combinations, such as red, blue, grey, tan, and green in connection with solid, plaid, and stripe designs, to create a consistent design and color palette.
*4 7) Use of all natural cotton, wool, and twill fabrics to create a consistent texture palette. 8) The creation of a cutting edge "cool" image through photographs and advertising and promotional material, such as the A&;F Quarterly (the "catalog" or "Quarterly"). The Quarterly presents the Abercrombie brand and trade dress in a unique manner: namely, it features the Abercrombie brand and trade dress in a "cutout" or "clothesline" style and uses color bars to illustrate the available colors of the item, while combining a consistent conceptual theme with a lifestyle editorial content of music, electronics, books, and magazine features. The catalog is printed on cougar vellum paper, which is unique for a catalog. 9) The creation of a consistent merchandise look in A&;F stores through the use of in-store signage and display setups and through the use of the "Abercrombie sales associate team," which is comprised primarily of college students. See Compl. .
American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. ("American Eagle" or "American"), sells essentially the same variety of clothing and products in its 300 stores nationwide, under the trademarks and service marks AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS and AE, and generates approximately million in annual sales. American has been a retailer since at least 1994, although many of its products describe the company's vintage as 1977. Abercrombie accuses American of capitalizing on the former's success in the market by selling confusingly similar products and marketing them in a way confusingly similar to Abercrombie's image. A&;F asserts that its premiere issue of the Quarterly, the Fall 1997 issue, was copied by American Eagle, whose own catalog featured the same products (such as shirts, jeans, sweatshirts, boxer shorts, sweater vests, jackets, and pajamas), containing the same colors, having the same designs, being made from the same fabrics, and bearing the same product names (e.g., "vintage" sweatshirts and "field jerseys"). A&;F also claims that the
The Sixth Circuit has identified eight factors as informing the likelihood of confusion inquiry: 1) strength of the plaintiff's mark, 2) relatedness of the goods, 3) similarity of the marks, 4) evidence of actual confusion, 5) marketing channels used, 6) likely degree of purchaser care, 7) defendant's intent in selecting the mark, and 8) likelihood of expansion of the product lines. See Frisch's Rests.,
A&;F's Quarterly is described above. AE also uses the clothesline format to display its goods, although it puts significantly fewer garments on each page than A&;F does and presents its clothes in a spare, as opposed to dense, fashion. AE uses colorbars and design bars underneath almost all its garments, while A&;F does so occasionally, sometimes displaying several full-size images instead. The most striking visual difference between the catalogs lies in the photographs, which dominate the catalogs' overall content. Throughout the Quarterly, A&;F makes extensive use of photographs depicting apparently college-aged people in often erotic or homoerotic poses or situations wearing clothes with A&;F
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Abercrombie could prevail on its trade dress infringement claim.
In order to prevail on a
claim, a plaintiff must establish the existence of a likelihood of confusion as to the source or origin of the plaintiff's and defendant's products. This court has held that "
he general concept underlying the likelihood of confusion is that the public believe that the [mark or dress] owner sponsored or otherwise approved the use of the trademark" or trade dress. Carson v. Here's Johnny Portable Toilets, Inc.,
On June 2, 1998, Abercrombie filed suit in the district court claiming that American infringed upon its unregistered trade dress, in violation of of the Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. , the Ohio common law of trade dress protection and unfair competition, and the Ohio Deceptive Trade Practices Act, O.R.C. § 4165.01 et seq. [2] American served its Answer on August 3, 1998, and simultaneously filed its motion for summary judgment. On November 30, 1998, the district court granted in part American's motion to stay discovery: the court ruled that discovery on the issue of American's intentional copying was inappropriate during the pendency of American's summary judgment motion because American
*6 had admitted intentional copying for purposes of the motion, but the court permitted discovery on the question of use of similar designs and marketing approaches by third-party retailers, which issue American raised in its motion.
On July 12, 1999, the district court granted American's motion for summary judgment in its entirety. The court recognized that unregistered trade dress protection can extend to "the image and overall appearance of the product." The court described trade dress as 1) either a singular feature or combination of features that takes on a distinct arrangement, 2) intended by the maker to permit the public to identify it as coming from a particular source, and 3) having a tendency to do so. The court noted that trade dress is protectable under either of two circumstances: the dress is inherently distinctive or has acquired secondary meaning. The district court assumed, for purposes of the motion, that Abercrombie's arrangement of words, colors, and format had acquired secondary meaning, but reasoned that the motion turned on the question of whether the elements described in Abercrombie's complaint constituted trade dress at all. According to the district court, trade dress protection is not available when a) the means of dressing the product is functional or descriptive, or b) the claimed trade dress amounts to an abstract image or marketing approach.
The court concluded that, regardless of any public identification of the claimed trade dress with Abercrombie, "it is simply too descriptive and generic to qualify for Lanham Act protection." The court remarked, "retailers must be free to use common verbal or pictorial descriptions of their goods . . . [including] such matters as showing the clothing in 'cutout' fashion . . . using combinations of standard colors . . . universally-recognized patterns . . . and common fabrics . . . in clothing design and manufacture. . . . All of these factors are both generic and descriptive . . ."
The Court recognize[d] that a combination of generic or descriptive elements can sometimes create a unique look
included so-called lifestyle editorial content for some time.
[23]
But mail order retailers can still sell their clothes and create an aura about their products without including such content, although this method seems to have recently become a particularly effective way of creating demand. At the very least, the evidence in the record creates a genuine issue of material fact as to whether protection of the design features chosen by Abercrombie for its catalog leaves open sufficient comparable alternate methods of marketing clothing to young people by mail, such that granting A&;F a monopoly on its distinctive configuration would not hinder the ability of another manufacturer to compete effectively in the market. Here, the Seventh Circuit's verbal formulation of the issue seems particularly apt: "whether the [combination of] feature[s] . . . is something that other producers of the product in question would have to have as part of [their catalog] in order to be able to compete effectively in the market . . . or whether it is the kind of merely incidental [configuration] which gives the brand some individual distinction but which producers of competing brands can readily do without." W.T. Rogers Co.,
Abercrombie claimed three "things" as its trade dress. Its clothing designs and its in-store presentation are not protectable because they are functional, despite their distinctiveness. As to the overall design of the A&;F Quarterly, however, we will assume that it satisfies the distinctiveness and non-functionality conditions for protectability because, for purposes of the instant appeal, American conceded secondary meaning and the record evidence raises genuine issues as to the material fact of nonfunctionality. We therefore proceed to assess whether [23] See Laura Bird, Advertising Beyond Mail Order: Catalogs Now Sell Image, Advice, The Wall Street Journal (July 29, 1997) ("‘A&;F Quarterly' is just the latest retail catalog to blur the distinction between mail-order and magazine . . . Unlike traditional mail order books, these thick, glossy 'magalogs' are designed primarily as advertising vehicles to sell a certain image and bring shoppers into stores.").
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presumably, selling clothes. But that does not make the catalog's overall design functional. Nor does the presence of many functional elements in the Quarterly's design. Even if the elements Abercrombie identifies were all separately functional, as American argued and the district court held, A&;F's arrangement of these features can constitute more than the sum of its non-protectable parts. See Publications Int'l, Ltd. v. Landoll, Inc.,
A&;F has chosen to print its catalog on an unusual kind of paper, leaving competitors a variety of other paper options. The clothes offered for sale appear in "clothesline" or "cutout" form (the garments appear on the page as if hanging from a clothesline, i.e., not on a model), while many catalogs show garments on a model or display them in other ways. Colorbars are a useful mechanism for communicating the available selection of colors, but the same information can be provided in a handful of other ways. Abercrombie uses grainy images of exceptionally fit and attractive young people in outdoor (often collegiate) settings, alone and in groups, wearing more or less A&;F clothing in ways that convey their allegiance to the brand while also seemingly attempting to create a sexual mystique about the wearer. The Quarterlies in the record rarely deviate from this pattern, but clothing retailers have an infinite variety of options for surrounding their clothes with pleasing or desirable imagery that avoids showing scantily clad college students in a grainy photograph. Finally, the record demonstrates that clothing catalogs have that is protectable, but there is nothing arbitrary or fanciful, or in any way distinctive, about the combination of these elements in a clothing catalog that would make the whole of the "Abercrombie Brand," at least as it relates to the descriptive language, color combinations, and cutout style, something more than the sum of its nonprotectable parts. That observation applies equally to the use of words claiming that the clothing is "authentic" and the use of A&;F's own trademark . . .
The court lastly considered the "element of the Abercrombie Brand" comprising its method of appealing to the "cool" or "cutting edge" consumer by adding lifestyle content to its catalog, and held that "the concept of marketing products to 'cool' or 'cutting edge' consumers by appealing to other aspects of their lifestyle [is not] protectable." The court entered judgment for American. A&;F moved for reconsideration, pursuant to Fed. R. Civ. P. 59(e), introducing certain email messages as evidence of consumer confusion. The court doubted whether the evidence was newly discovered, but examined and rejected it as irrelevant to the district court's judgment, which turned not on secondary meaning or confusion but on the unprotectable nature of Abercrombie's claimed trade dress. Abercrombie timely appealed.
II
We turn first to a threshold issue: the timing of summary judgment. "[S]ummary judgment is improper if the non-movant is not afforded a sufficient opportunity for discovery." Vance v. United States,
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summary judgment was prematurely entered because additional discovery was needed, and the argument is not preserved for appeal unless it is first advanced in the district court. See Vance,
Although American filed its answer, its summary judgment motion, and its motion to stay discovery simultaneously, the district court resolved the two motions separately. In responding to the motion to stay discovery, which the court addressed first, Abercrombie filed neither a Fed. R. Civ. P. 56(f) affidavit nor requests for additional discovery. However, its memorandum in opposition to the motion explained its need for discovery and cited White's Landing Fisheries,
We reach the same conclusion with respect to Abercrombie's claim of trade dress in its in-store display setups [21] and use of college students as sales associates. Forbidding clothiers to use college students to sell garments to or for college-age people indubitably prevents them from effectively competing in the market for casual clothing directed at young people.
Abercrombie's catalog is a different matter entirely. [22] Of course, the Quarterly has certain functions, including "the creation of a cutting edge 'cool' Abercrombie image," and, [21] Abercrombie's failure to describe these setups in its complaint and its brief or include a depiction of one in the record indicates that its claim of trade dress in its in-store presentation lacks sufficient particularity. See supra Part III.B. [22] Again, for ease of reference, A&;F describes its catalog's trade dress thus: "the creation of a cutting edge 'cool' Abercrombie image through photographs and advertising and promotional material . . . which presents the Abercrombie Brand and Trade Dress in a unique manner, namely, it features the Abercrombie Brand and Trade Dress in a 'cutout' or 'clothesline' style and uses color bars to illustrate the available colors of goods, while combining a consistent conceptual theme with a lifestyle editorial content of music, electronics, books, and magazine features and is printed on cougar vellum paper which is unique for a catalog." Compl. .
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Giving Abercrombie a monopoly on the words its claims form part of its trade dress would hamstring any competitor's ability to convey the reliability of its own brand. The English language currently contains a limited list of synonyms for reliable and other words that convey a product's integrity. While Abercrombie designers deserve credit for using the company's age as a creative indicator of their products' reliability, few other verbal formulations adequately or efficiently convey this concept. The same is true of using suggestive symbols like lacrosse sticks and the ski patrol cross on clothing to convey the product's athletic nature or capacity to invoke images of athleticism. Producers have a limited range of sports and sporting equipment to choose from in attempting to convey this idea in this manner on clothing.
[20]
Producers could go without such images or devise wholly new ways of conveying the athleticism concept in connection with casual clothing, but at present these features are ones that "competitors would have to spend money not to copy but to design around." W.T. Rogers Co.,
Finally, Abercrombie is not saved by its characterization of its trade dress as the combination of different design features on its clothing: denying American or other producers the right to combine these functional design features with their own has not yet been used on clothing that appears in the record, and it may be only a matter of time before one of the parties displays fencing paraphernalia on its garments in order to invoke the particular image of athleticism and class that accompanies that sport. unduly exalt form over substance. Making the arguments once is enough. [4]
The district court's November 30, 1998, order granting American's motion to stay discovery recited the Court's view that additional evidence of intentional copying at this stage [beyond American's limited admission] would not add materially to the Court's analysis of the protectability of A&;F's trade dress as placed in issue by American Eagle's summary judgment motion. Under all of these circumstances, the Court believes that the best course of action is to defer discovery of highly sensitive and competitive information until after this threshold question [of the existence of protectable trade dress] has been addressed.
Abercrombie argues that, beyond evidence of intentional copying, it sought "discovery concerning the uniqueness of the Abercrombie Trade Dress, which had acquired secondary meaning among consumers, and concerning the likelihood of confusion with the American Trade Dress." Appellant's Br. at 39 (emphasis added). Abercrombie believes further discovery would have substantiated its claims that a) American intentionally copied the Abercrombie trade dress to capitalize on its goodwill, b) consumers perceive the Abercrombie trade dress as being unique to Abercrombie, and c) American's consumers are actually confused as to whether there is an association between the two companies. See Appellant's Br. at 41. Abercrombie correctly argues that such evidence would have raised a genuine issue of material fact as to whether Abercrombie had protectable trade dress, but it fails to realize that such evidence would have done so by demonstrating the existence of distinctiveness acquired through attachment of secondary meaning. Since the record
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already contained extensive uncontested evidence of secondary meaning, such discovery prior to the district court's resolution of American's motion would have been unnecessarily duplicative. Abercrombie needed no further discovery to oppose American's motion, and the motion was ripe for resolution at the time the district court considered it. Because this opinion resolves the case in certain ways not expressly addressed by the district court, we note that none of the facts A&;F wished to discover goes to the question of functionality, and, as discussed infra pages 37-44, the fact of actual consumer confusion here would not create a genuine issue of material fact on the question of confusing similarity of the parties' catalogs because we presently resolve a legal question and hold them not confusingly similar as a matter of law.
III
A
This court reviews a district court's grant of summary judgment de novo. See Daddy's Junky Music Stores, Inc. v. Big Daddy's Family Music Ctr.,
We turn first to Abercrombie's clothing designs. [19] Abercrombie's complaint itself identifies the functions of the design elements it selected: use of the word performance "convey[s] the image of an active line of . . . clothing"; use of the words authentic, genuine brand, trademark, and since 1892 "convey the reliability of the . . .brand;" and so on. Use of these elements in combination with one another and with Abercrombie's trademarks on clothing bearing "primary color combinations . . . in connection with solid, plaid and stripe designs" and made from "all natural cotton, wool and twill fabrics" creates reliable rugged and/or athletic casual clothing drawn from a consistent texture, design, and color palette. Were the law to grant Abercrombie protection of these features, the paucity of comparable alternative features that competitors could use to compete in the market for casual clothing would leave competitors at a significant nonreputational competitive disadvantage and would, therefore, prevent effective competition in the market.
19For ease of reference, we here reprint the features Abercrombie claims comprise the trade dress of its garment designs: "a) use of the Abercrombie Marks, in particular the A&;F trademark in universe bold condensed typeface; b) use of the word performance on labels and advertising and promotional material to convey the image of an active line of casual clothing; c) use of such words and phrases as authentic, genuine brand, trademark, [and] since 1892 on labels and advertising and promotional material to convey the reliability of the Abercrombie Brand; d) use of the word outdoor on labels and advertising and promotional materials to convey the image of a rugged outdoor line of casual clothing; e) use of design logos, such as the ski patrol cross and lacrosse sticks, and product names for the types of clothing, such as "field jersey," to convey the image of an athletic line of casual clothing; f) use of primary color combinations, such as red, blue, grey, tan and green in connection with solid, plaid and stripe designs, to create a consistent design and color palette, g) use of all natural cotton, wool and twill fabrics to create a consistent texture palette . . ." Compl. 7. The last two features are obviously functional standing alone. And American has not directly copied the first feature, the use of Abercrombie's trademarks; it has used its own. It seems, then, that Abercrombie meant to define its trade dress as including some or many of the features labeled b) through e) in combination with the last two features and the producer's own trademark.
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trade dress protection for a product's feature would hinder the ability of another manufacturer to compete effectively in the market for the product. If such hinderance is probable, then the feature is functional and unsuitable for protection. If the feature is not a likely impediment to market competition, then the feature is nonfunctional and may receive trademark protection." Id. at 1149 (footnotes omitted). The same principle applies to trade dress law. See Two Pesos,
Rogers Co., 778 F.2d at 339 .
18
As the Seventh Circuit explained: "[I]t would . . . be unreasonable to let a manufacturer use trademark law to prevent competitors from making pleasing substitutes for his own brand; yet that would be the effect of allowing him to appropriate the most pleasing way of configuring the product." W.T. Rogers Co.,
B
Section 43(a) of the Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1125(a), protects from infringement the unregistered "trade dress" of a product. As explained more fully below, to recover for trade dress infringement under
, a party must prove by a preponderance of the evidence: 1) that the trade dress in question is distinctive in the marketplace, thereby indicating the source of the good it dresses, 2) that the trade dress is primarily nonfunctional, and 3) that the trade dress of the competing good is confusingly similar. See Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. v. Samara Bros., Inc.,
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of the product distinguishable from another and . . . promote[s] its sale.'" Ferrari,
As the Second Circuit observed, recently "'trade dress' has taken on a more expansive meaning and includes the design and appearance of the product as well as that of the container and all elements making up the total visual image by which the product is presented to customers." Jeffrey Milstein, Inc. v. Gregor, Lawlor, Roth, Inc.,
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The two most common "tests" of aesthetic functionality under the competition theory prove useful in this case. "The test for 'comparable alternatives' asks whether trade-dress protection of certain features would nevertheless leave a variety of comparable alternative features that competitors may use to compete in the market. If such alternatives do not exist, the feature is functional; but if such alternatives do exist, then the feature is not functional." Wong,
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comment did not displace the traditional functionality standard from Inwood Laboratories. Instead it explained the policy underlying the functionality doctrine in a way readily adaptable to the problem of aesthetic functionality, the issue presented in Qualitex. See TrafFix,
None of the design features that Abercrombie claims as its trade dress is essential to the use or purpose of the garments, catalog, and stores they adorn. The design features surely affect the cost and quality of the garments and the design of the catalog affects its cost and aesthetics (which determines, in part, its quality as a device for selling clothing), so a jury question exists as to whether the designs are functional in the traditional sense. However, no reasonable jury could deny the existence of a "significant non-reputation-related disadvantage" that would be imposed on competitors by protecting Abercrombie's claimed trade dress. That form of functionality governs the analysis of this case.
[16]
[16]
For quite some time, the circuits have disagreed about the most appropriate theory of functionality to use in aesthetic functionality cases. Courts have divided between those recognizing the identification theory (which at times employed the "indicia of source," "actual benefit," "consumer motivation," and "commercial success" tests of a feature's capacity to identify the manufacturer to consumers) and the competition theory (which at times employed the "comparable alternatives," "essential to usage," "relation to usage," "ease of manufacture," and "effective competition" tests of whether granting a monopoly on a feature would prevent other suppliers from competing in the market for the product). See Mitchell M. Wong, The Aesthetic Functionality Doctrine and the Law of Trade Dress Protection, 83 Cornell L. Rev. 1116, 1132-52 (1998). The Seventh Circuit explained its adoption of the competition theory by identifying problems with the identification theory: it held that it is error to
define nonfunctional as serving primarily to identify the manufacturer. Understood literally, this would mean that if a particular design feature had two equally important purposes, one to please consumers and the other to identify the
our purposes, the layout and appearance of a mail-order catalog, see Tools USA &; Equip. Co. v. Champ Frame Straightening Equip.,
Still, the notion that any "thing" that dresses a good can constitute trade dress cannot be divorced from the underlying concept of trade dress law: protection of effable markers used to identify the source of a good in commerce. Although producers and marketers of goods can adopt and seek to protect a seemingly infinite variety of product packages and product configurations, the recognition that trade dress can comprise "any thing," "even particular sales techniques," Two Pesos, Inc.,
*14 it has to certain consumers do not dress a good in trade. Rather, those intangible "things" emanate from the good, its dress, and the marketing campaign that promotes the dressed good. Trade dress is tangible or otherwise objectively observable by the senses; its constitution is a matter of subjective interpretation. Lest we lose sight of the body of law here in question, that of trade dress, we are reminded that certain "things" held out as "dress" are not dress at all. Hans Christian Andersen, The Emperor's New Clothes (Naomi Lewis, trans., Candlewick Press, 1997) (1837). With this in mind, we turn to American's argument and the district court's holding that Abercrombie seeks to protect its marketing theme.
American, like the district court, draws a contrast between trade dress and a "marketing approach." See generally Haagen-Dazs v. Frusen Gladje, Ltd.,
Protection of functional product features is the province of patent law, which confers a monopoly over new product designs for a limited time only, after which competitors are free to copy at will. See id. As the Supreme Court advised, "
rade dress protection must subsist with the recognition that in many instances there is no prohibition against copying goods and products. In general, unless an intellectual property right such as a patent or copyright protects an item, it will be subject to copying." TrafFix,
Congress resolved a circuit split regarding the "defense of functionality" by declaring that the burden of proof rests on the plaintiff to prove non-functionality. See 15 U.S.C. . Given the evidence in the record, we see no possibility that Abercrombie can carry its burden of proof with respect to the nonfunctionality of its clothing designs.
Courts have recognized that "the functionality doctrine may apply even to features of a product that are purely ornamental." Knitwaves,
*15
is, for purposes of this opinion, an established fact. Thus, A&;F successfully cleared the distinctiveness hurdle. The district court erred in granting summary judgment to American on the grounds that Abercrombie's trade dress lacked distinctiveness.
Much of the district court's opinion reveals a concern for the anti-competitive effect of a judgment for Abercrombie insofar as competitors like American could be left unable to market their goods efficiently and effectively or to design clothes that would compete with A&;F's. [15] Concern for realistic competition in a given industry has a place in trade dress law: the functionality doctrine. Because the record now before this court documents the functionality of certain designs that Abercrombie claims as its trade dress, our de novo review leads us to the conclusion that the district court's judgment for American is supported by a legal determination not expressly reached below.
D
The Supreme Court recently reaffirmed the policy that functional product designs cannot be protected as trade dress. See TrafFix,
15 Addressing its comments primarily to Abercrombie's attempt to protect the design of the Quarterly, the district court opined that protecting a marketing style or method would unduly interfere with competitors' right to depict their products fairly. The court observed, "Within the scope of advertising certain types of clothing, retailers must be free to use common verbal or pictorial descriptions of their goods without fear that they can be held liable for infringement. At a minimum, those would include such matters as showing the clothing in "cutout" fashion, . . . using combinations of standard colors . . . universally-recognized patterns . . . and common fabrics . . . in clothing design and manufacture. . . . All of these factors are both generic and descriptive . . ." restaurant's overall themę, informal country dining, could not acquire such protection.'
Similarly, the Haagen-Dazs court concluded that, despite the plaintiffs' identification of five common features on two ice cream packages, "the containers in issue, as well as their dress, [were] clearly distinguishable and would appear so to all but the most obtuse consumer." Haagen-Dazs, Inc.,
Abercrombie describes its trade dress as creating a variety of different images: "an active line of casual clothing," "a rugged line of casual clothing," "an athletic line of casual clothing," and "a cutting edge 'cool' Abercrombie image." But Abercrombie does not claim a monopoly on a cutting
*16 edge "cool" image. Instead, Abercrombie seeks protection of the design features that it claims have combined to become distinctive of its goods in commerce. For example, in describing one element included as part of its overall trade dress, Abercrombie lists "use of the word outdoor on labels and advertising and promotional material to convey the image of a rugged outdoor line of casual clothing." Compl. 97 (d). Fairly understood, Abercrombie does not seek to forbid American from marketing clothes that convey the image of a rugged outdoor line of casual clothing, but instead seeks to prevent American from doing so by using the word outdoor in combination with other aspects of Abercrombie's trade dress that have supposedly come to signify Abercrombie as the source of the goods.
Abercrombie's complaint is a bit perplexing: it describes its "trade dress" as comprising all nine of the features identified supra pages 3-4. If its trade dress really comprises all nine elements acting in concert to create its overall look, an injunction to prohibit marketing a line of clothing bearing a confusingly similar overall look would probably do the company little good, as American could easily drop a few items from its line, e.g., stop using the word performance, and thereby begin marketing a dissimilar line of products. Conversely, under such a broad theory of the case, Abercrombie's introduction of a new design, e.g., using fencing foils on t-shirts, would alter the form of its trade dress and potentially permit infringement of the newly conceived trade dress in the absence of an expanded injunction. Also, Abercrombie's description of its trade dress seems at times internally inconsistent: query whether clothing can at once convey an "active," a "rugged," an "athletic," and a "cool" image. Moreover, some of Abercrombie's descriptions are rather broad: consider "use of all natural cotton, wool, and twill fabrics to create a consistent texture palette." Compl.【 7(g). And its inclusion of the catalog and the sales associate teams as trade dress of its clothing stretches the boundaries of trade dress law.
registration of a mark used by the applicant which has become distinctive of the applicant's goods in commerce' - that is, which is not inherently distinctive but has become so only through secondary meaning"). This court has long held that "evidence of intentional copying shows the strong secondary meaning of [a product] because '[t]here is no logical reason for the precise copying save an attempt to realize upon a secondary meaning that is in existence.'" Ferrari,
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design fall short of the distinctiveness requirement because they are generic.
The court erred. None of the three items of A&;F's trade dress at issue in this case is generic. The label of "generic" is a severe condemnation and, we suspect, one that stings a clothing designer rather harshly. Here, the label is not justified. In language repeatedly quoted by the Supreme Court, Judge Friendly described generic terms as the genus of which a product is a species, e.g., "soap" or "shirts" or "baseball caps." The equivalent in designs, bearing in mind the word-mark policy that a manufacturer has the right to call a product by its name, would be the most basic incarnation of a given genus of products, i.e., the image that appears in a person's head when he hears the word "shirt" or "baseball cap." Clothing bearing images of athletic paraphernalia are not a basic incarnation of certain types of apparel. The genus is athletic (or suggestively athletic) apparel; the species is shirts bearing lacrosse sticks. With respect to the Quarterly, the genus is "mail-order clothing catalogs"; the species is mail order clothing catalogs containing lifestyle editorial content and depicting the goods in the "clothesline" style with color bars to present color options. Just as a manufacturer has a right to call a product by its name, it can sell its clothes by mail by placing images of them in a catalog, but it need not do so in the manner of another producer. While producers have little choice but to call a shirt a shirt, they can place upon a shirt an infinite variety of images and depict that shirt on paper in an infinite variety of ways. That certain of these ways are particularly effective at generating sales does not make them generic.
Since none of the trade dress at issue here is generic, Abercrombie can meet the distinctiveness requirement by showing attachment of secondary meaning to its designs. See Samara Bros.,
A
Federal Rule of Civil Procedure 8(f) states that "All pleadings shall be so construed as to do justice." "As this court has stated, 'the fundamental tenor of the Rules is one of liberality rather than technicality . . .'" Minger v. Green,
*18 dress, an objectively observable "particular sales technique" used to sell clothing, or packaging of the products it depicts. Abercrombie's use of certain in-store displays and a sales associate team comprised mainly of college students also constitute a "particular sales technique."
Thus, in remarking that Abercrombie sought protection only of its marketing theme, the district court misconstrued the nature of this suit. Abercrombie sought protection of its trade dress, which includes features of - and, in the case of the Quarterly, also comprises a major part ofAbercrombie's marketing campaign. Yet A&;F's claimed trade dress transcends those aspects of its trade dress directly associated with its campaign to attract young, fit, active consumers. As we read the complaint, the trade dress A&;F
Abercrombie closely associates in time and space- as indicated by the Quarterly's sales-related content and its display in Abercrombie stores the visual images contained in the Quarterly with its products. As promotional material closely associated with its products in the same way that product packaging either containing visual images or conveying an ephemeral image is closely associated with the product its contains, the design of the Quarterly can properly be regarded as a component of the trade dress of Abercrombie's clothing insofar as it constitutes a particular sales technique, Original Appalachian Artworks,
The district court examined the features of Abercrombie's catalog listed in the complaint and declared them, oddly, "both generic and descriptive." The court then viewed the catalog as a whole to determine if its overall appearance created a "unique look that is protectable," and held that "there is nothing arbitrary or fanciful, or in any way distinctive, about the combination of these elements in a clothing catalog that would make the whole of the 'Abercrombie Brand,' at least as it relates to the descriptive language, color combinations, and cutout style, something more than the sum of its non-protectable parts. That observation applies equally to the use of words claiming that the clothing is 'authentic' and the use of A&;F's own trademark . . ." Ibid. (emphasis added). This appears to be a holding that Abercrombie's clothing designs and its catalog
be regarded as a standard men's shirt, and the public would have no occasion to regard a garment of such basic design as coming from a certain shirtmaker, for the design is a generic one and does not distinguish the good.
[13]
See also 15 U.S.C. § 1064(c) (providing for cancellation of any mark that has become "the common descriptive name of an article or substance," i.e., a generic term); Keebler Co. v. Rovira Biscuit Corp.,
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showing of inherent distinctiveness but must rely instead on acquired distinctiveness, i.e., a showing of secondary meaning. See id. at 216. Still, Samara Brothers did not completely eschew the Abercrombie taxonomy for analyzing distinctiveness. Indeed Samara Brothers, like Qualitex, reasoned by analogy to Judge Friendly's classifications of word marks, particularly relying on the rationales underlying the classifications. In adapting those rationales to product configuration trade dress, the Court determined that the more distinctive categories of word marks had no parallel in the field of design and required all purportedly distinctive designs to have acquired secondary meaning before becoming eligible for protection. The Court did not address the ability of generic designs to distinguish goods as the product of a particular supplier, leaving open the conceptual possibility that generic designs bearing secondary meaning are protectable. For purposes of classifying word marks, "[a] generic term is one that refers, or has come to be understood as referring, to the genus of which the particular product is a species." Abercrombie &; Fitch,
This reasoning applies equally well to generic product configurations, for no designer should have a monopoly on designs regarded by the public as the basic form of a particular item. [12] Two Pesos commented that the "general
12 An anachronism demonstrates the point: an ancient Roman designer who conceived and marketed a new tunic by having it fit the body snugly with sleeves down to the wrist slit at mid-forearm on the underside, a simple cuff for buttoning, buttons spaced evenly down the front, and a stiff folding collar with splayed points might have deserved trade dress protection of his innovative design if consumers viewed the products as coming from a single source, but the same design today would seeks to protect is: 1) the designs of the goods themselves, 2) the design of the catalog created to sell its products by, among other things, cultivating an image it wants consumers to associate with its products, and 3) features of its -store presentation associated with the sale of its products. [1]
11
American complains that "Abercrombie's purported trade dress is an ever changing melange of words, logos, and colors; elements are added and dropped with every season and every change in what is currently 'cool' to the college-age consumer." Appellee's Br. at 24-25. Furthermore, American points out that Abercrombie does not consistently use its claimed trade dress in all of its products. American argues that "[i]t is therefore ludicrous to assert that Abercrombie trade dress, which 'represent[s] a kaleidoscope of color combinations and design formats which fail to convey a consistent overall look' to consumers [is as precise as Taco Cabana trade dress]" Appellee's Br. at 25 (quoting Rose Art Indus., Inc. v. Raymond Geddes &; Co.,
American's argument posits that trade dress encompassing multiple products must be uniform and consistent over time and across products. This point certainly applies to the trade dress of a family of products. See Regal Jewelry Co. v. Kingsbridge Int'l, Inc.,
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This court's willingness to read a complaint fairly should not be taken as an invitation to shotgun litigation, especially when a producer claims that a combination of elements comprises its trade dress. As McCarthy commented, "[w]hatever may be claimed as the combination of elements making up the product or its packaging and presentation, . . . it will not do to solely identify in litigation a combination as 'the trade dress.' Rather, the discrete elements which make up that combination should be separated out and identified in a list." McCarthy on Trademarks § 8:3. As the Second Circuit observed,
focus on the overall look of a product does not permit a plaintiff to dispense with an articulation of the specific elements which comprise its distinct dress. Without such a precise expression of the character and scope of the claimed trade dress, litigation will be difficult, as courts will be unable to evaluate how unique and unexpected the design elements are in the relevant market. Courts will also be unable to shape narrowly-tailored relief if they do not know what distinctive combination of ingredients deserves protection. Moreover, a plaintiff's inability to explain to a court exactly which aspects of its product design(s) merit protection may indicate that its claim is pitched at an improper level of generality, i.e., the claimant seeks protection for an unprotectable style, theme or idea.
elements consisting of less than the totality of features."). This result reflects the reality of the clothing industry, since including "lifeguard" and lacrosse sticks in designs of clothing sold for summer and putting "ski patrol" and the ski patrol cross on clothing sold for winter is simply a reaction to seasonal changes, not a rejection of one form of design trade dress in favor of another. Cf. Samara Bros., Inc. v. Wal-Mart Stores, Inc.,
The Supreme Court appears to have settled the dispute by agreeing in large part with the Third Circuit. The Court regarded Qualitex as following the rationale behind the Abercrombie test but not adopting it outright, because color, like a descriptive word mark, does not "almost automatically tell a customer that [it] refers to a brand," and does not "immediately signal a brand or a product source," although it may come to have such powers upon acquisition of secondary meaning. Samara Bros.,
After Samara Brothers, no product configuration can meet the distinctiveness requirement of the Lanham Act by a
*21
996, 1007 (2d Cir. 1995), and "does not quite fit the . . considerations applicable to product configurations," Duraco Prods., Inc. v. Joy Plastic Enters.,
The Eighth Circuit disagreed with the Duraco Products court's focus on the consumer's perception of the product (in terms of the configuration's memorableness and capacity for source-identification) and stood by the Abercrombie classifications as a workable device for determining "whether and to what degree that feature is dictated by the nature of the product." Stuart Hall Co. v. Ampad Corp.,
Landscape Forms, Inc. v. Columbia Cascade Co.,
The Landscape Forms court reversed issuance of a preliminary injunction because "Landscape ha[d] not articulated and supported its claimed [inherently distinctive] trade dress with sufficient particularity." Landscape Forms,
The district court erred in treating Abercrombie's suit as an attempt to protect a "marketing theme." A&;F seeks protection of its designs, and it can do so even if the designs are consistent with, contain aspects of, form a part of, or convey to consumers the same message as, its marketing campaign. In sum, the three "things" Abercrombie seeks to protect constitute trade dress.
*22
C
The first step in qualifying trade dress for protection under
is proving distinctiveness. "
ourts have universally imposed th[is] requirement, since without distinctiveness the trade dress would not 'cause confusion . . . as to the origin, sponsorship, or approval of [the] goods,' as [section 43(a)] requires." Samara Bros.,
The Supreme Court remarked that "the general principles qualifying a mark for registration under
of the Lanham Act are for the most part applicable in determining whether an unregistered mark is entitled to protection under § 43(a)." Two Pesos,
In the ensuing years, the circuit courts split over whether and to what extent the Abercrombie taxonomy applied to product configuration trade dress cases, although most agreed that product packaging trade dress cases should be analyzed under that framework. See Rohit A. Sabnis, Product Configuration Trade Dress and Abercrombie: Analysis of Ashley Furniture Industries, Inc. v. Sangiacomo N.A. Ltd., 1 Minn. Intell. Prop. Rev. 183, 193 (2000).
The Second and Third Circuits submitted that the Abercrombie taxonomy "make[s] little sense when applied to product features," Knitwaves, Inc. v. Lollytogs Ltd., 71 F.3d
NOTES
Notes
The district court's opinion on American's motion for summary judgment overlooked or discounted this evidence, remarking on "the absence of any allegation that through in-store displays . . . American Eagle has recreated the A&;F look within its stores.
Both Ohio and federal courts have recognized that the same analysis applies to claims under Ohio's statutory and common law of unfair competition and the Lanham Act. See Leventhal &; Assocs., Inc. v. Thomson Cent. Ohio,
That Abercrombie appealed only from the grant of summary judgment and not the order staying discovery is likewise of no moment. A stay of discovery is not a final appealable order.
The Court wrote:
The language of the Lanham Act describes [the universe of things that can qualify as a trademark] in the broadest of terms. It says that trademarks 'includ[e] any word, name, symbol, or device, or any combination thereof." [15 U.S.C.] § 1127. Since human beings might use as a "symbol" or "device" almost anything at all that is capable of carrying meaning, this language, read literally, is not restrictive.
Qualitex,
As the Supreme Court observed, § 43(a) "provides little guidance as to the circumstances under which unregistered trade dress may be protected," but courts have successfully reasoned by analogy to the conditions for trademark protection. Samara Bros.,
After concluding that the eight identified elements of purported trade dress were not inherently distinctive and had not acquired secondary meaning, the Eighth Circuit opined in dicta that the eight elements were functional because they were chosen to respond to consumer demand for the core concept of informal country dining. See Prufrock,
